How to Use a Floor Jack and Jack Stands
To use a floor jack and jack stands, lift the car only at its designated jack point, set the stands under the recommended support points, and lower the jack so the stands carry the weight. The jack raises the vehicle; the stands hold it while you work.
On this page (7 sections)
- What do you need before you lift a car?
- Where is it safe to jack up a car?
- How do you raise the car with a floor jack?
- How do you set jack stands under the car?
- How do you lower the car onto the stands?
- How do you work safely and put the car back down?
- Which floor jack suits your car and your lift height?
To use a floor jack and jack stands, lift the car only at its designated jack point, set the stands under the recommended support points, and lower the jack so the stands carry the weight. The jack raises the vehicle; the stands hold it while you work.
The order matters more than the tools. A jack that lifts smoothly still leaves the car resting on a single point, so the stands have to go in before any work starts.
What do you need before you lift a car?
A floor jack rated above your car's weight, at least one jack stand, and wheel chocks come first. A hard level surface and your owner's manual complete the basic kit.
Check the jack's load capacity against the car's curb weight. Leave a margin: the BIG RED trolley jack carries 3 tons (6,000 lbs), and the AV Steel 2.5 ton model carries 5,000 lbs.
Both are rated well above a typical sedan or SUV, but a full-size truck or loaded van needs the higher figure.
Confirm the lift range matches your car. A low-slung car needs a jack that slides under a low sill, which is why the low profile floor jack design matters: the AV Steel 2.5 ton model starts at 3.4 in.
A taller SUV is easier to reach with a long saddle neck like the BIG RED's, which tops out at 20-7/8 in.
Set out chocks for the wheels that stay on the ground. Look over the stands for cracks, bent legs, or a damaged locking pin before you trust them.
Read how a floor jack's hydraulics work in our guide to how does a floor jack work if the pump feels stiff.
What else belongs in the kit?
A few small items make the lift safer and easier. A wheel chock on each side of the wheels that stay down keeps the car from rolling when the saddle first meets the frame.
A flashlight helps you read the jack points and watch the saddle as it rises. Gloves protect your hands from the pinch weld and the sharp edges under the sill.
A block or pad on the saddle spreads the load when the factory point is wide.
Keep the owner's manual open on the ground next to you. It names the jack points and the support points in the same place, and they are often not the same spots.
Check your car's fit against the jack's range too: the AV Steel 2.5 ton model covers 3.4 in to 14.6 in and is not for trucks or SUVs. Confirm your car fits before you slide the jack under.
Where is it safe to jack up a car?
Use hard, level ground such as concrete or fresh asphalt, and never a slope, soft dirt, or gravel. Set the parking brake, put the car in Park or first gear, and chock the wheels opposite the corner you lift.
Avoid lifting on a hill even with chocks. The car can roll or slide while the jack takes the load.
A driveway with a slight crown counts as uneven ground, so move to a flat spot.
Clear the area around the jack and stands before you start. Tools, gravel, and loose mats under the wheels make the base unstable.
Keep children and pets away from the working area.
A garage floor is usually the best option. If you only have a sloped driveway, use ramps for oil changes instead of a jack, or find level pavement nearby.
How do you raise the car with a floor jack?
Slide the jack under the car so its saddle meets the factory jack point, then pump the handle until the saddle just touches. Check the contact, then raise the car in steady strokes.
Find the jack points in your owner's manual first. They sit on the pinch weld, subframe, or a reinforced plate, not on the rocker panel or a plastic cover.
A misplaced saddle can bend sheet metal.
Keep the handle clear of the ground as the car rises. Pump until the wheels clear the ground with room for the stands, not higher than you need.
The BIG RED's single piston quick lift pump raises the saddle fast, and its safety bypass system stops over-loading.
Check that the jack rolls freely as it lifts. A jack on its casters should follow the car's arc rather than drag.
If the saddle slips or the car shifts, lower it and start over.
How do the casters and saddle help on the way up?
The wheels on the base do more than move the jack into place. Two large steel casters and two 360-degree swivel casters on the BIG RED let the jack roll and turn under the car as the saddle rises.
That matters because the saddle does not move straight up in a perfect line. As the arm lifts, the jack has to follow the car's arc.
A jack that rolls well keeps the saddle centered on the point instead of twisting or dragging across the sill.
The saddle face matters too. A 360-degree rotating saddle like the one on the AV Steel 2.5 ton model meets the point flat and stays flat as the car lifts.
The extra saddle on the BIG RED gives you a second contact face for wider points. Watch the saddle at the first pump stroke and stop if it looks like it is sliding off the point.
How do you set jack stands under the car?
Place each stand under a factory support point, raise its saddle to just meet the car, and lock the pin or ratchet before you lower the jack. Keep the stands vertical and on the same hard surface as the jack.
The support points are often different from the jack points. Look for the reinforced areas the manual names, such as the subframe or axle tube.
Never put a stand under a plastic panel, the floor pan, or a suspension arm that can move.
Set the stand height close to the car's height so the saddle meets the point with little gap. Lock the pin fully through the stand's column.
A stand that wobbles or leans means the ground or the point is wrong.
Use one stand for a tire change and two or more when the car stays up longer. A single corner lift with a stand under the subframe is the usual pattern for a wheel swap.
How do you lower the car onto the stands?
Open the jack's release valve slowly and let the car settle onto the stands, then check that each saddle sits flat and centered. Leave the jack in place under its lifting point as a backup.
Turn the release handle a quarter turn at most and let the car come down in a smooth drop. A fast release makes the car fall hard onto the stands.
Stop if a stand shifts.
Once the car rests on the stands, rock it gently by hand. A car that moves more than a little means a stand is off its point or the ground is uneven.
Lower it and reset.
Leave the jack under the car with light contact. It won't carry weight, but it catches the car if a stand fails.
Keep the handle out of the walkway.
How do you work safely and put the car back down?
Work with the car on the stands, keep the jack as a backup, and reverse the order to lower it: raise slightly with the jack, pull the stands, then release the jack fully. Chock and brake checks stay in place until the car is on all four wheels.
Keep your body out from under a car held only by a jack. The stands carry the load, so any work under the car happens only after the saddles are set.
If the car has to come down mid-job, raise it enough to clear the stands before pulling them.
After the job, raise the car a little, remove the stands, and lower it slowly. Pull the chocks last.
Check the jack's oil level and bleed it if the pump feels spongy; our guide to how to bleed a floor jack and the note on floor jack oil cover both.
Which floor jack suits your car and your lift height?
Pick the jack by your car's weight and its lowest jack point, then add stands rated for the same load. A low car needs a low entry height; a truck needs reach.
The BIG RED 3 ton trolley jack is the pick for most people lifting a truck, van, or SUV. Its 20-7/8 in top height and extra long saddle neck reach high vehicles in one lift.
The AV Steel 2.5 ton low profile model suits sedans and lowered cars, with a 3.4 in entry that slides under tight sills. The AV Steel 3 ton low profile jack covers heavier cars that still sit low, using a dual piston pump to raise the saddle with fewer strokes.
Match the stands to the jack's rating and to the support points on your car. Then keep the sequence in order every time: level ground, chocks, correct jack point, stands locked, slow lowering.
For more on jack care and lifting height, see our guide to how does a floor jack work.
Frequently asked questions
Can you work under a car held only by a floor jack?
No. A floor jack is a lifting tool, not a support.
Always lower the car onto rated jack stands before you put any part of your body under it, and keep the jack in place as a backup.
Where do you place jack stands under a car?
Use the support points named in your owner's manual, often on the subframe, axle, or reinforced seams. Keep the stand's saddle centered under the point and set the pin or ratchet so the stand is locked before lowering.
How many jack stands do you need to change a tire?
One stand holds the corner you are working on, and two or more are safer when the car stays up longer. If you plan to lift more than one corner or get under the car, use at least two stands and chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
Should you leave the floor jack under the car after setting the stands?
Yes. Leave the jack in place under its lifting point with light contact as a backup, after the stands carry the load.
Keep the handle clear of the ground and the wheels so nothing gets knocked into the stands.
Why does the car feel unstable after lowering it onto stands?
The ground is probably uneven or the stand saddles are off the support points. Lower the car, move to hard level pavement, and reset the stands so each saddle sits flat and centered.
